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Thursday, May 15, 2014

PUTTING DOWN A WEED BARRIER MAT AND MULCH

WEED BARRIER MAT  PLACED AROUND SHRUBS...

PIN THE MAT DOWN WITH PEGS...

PLACE 2"-4" OF MULCH OVEER MAT

CITY CREW PICKING UP YARD DEBRIS..YES, IT'S ALL FROM MY YARD!
Thursday,  8:45 AM.  39 degrees F, wind NE, moderately gusty.  The sky is overcast, the humidity is 73% and the barometer is more or less steady, at 30.2".
   Buddy started barking about 4:00 AM and then we heard a big "thump."  Sure enough, a bear had dumped over the garbage bin next door, strewing the contents, mostly cans and bottles, all over.  I'm glad he didn't get on the back porch and tip over the grill or take down the humming bird feeders.
   The city crew came around picking up yard debris yesterday, and after the hard winter I had a whole truck load for them.
   Shrub planting beds can often be made more maintenance free by placing a weed barrier mat around them and then mulching the bed.  It is a practical application if there are to be no under plantings of ground cover plants, bulbs or perennials.  The mats are usually a plastic fiber, and come in various weights, thicknesses, lengths and widths. The weed mat and pins for this bed cost about $20.00. The mat allows water to infiltrate but suppresses weed growth.  The mat and mulch also conserve moisture, greatly reducing the need for watering.
   Either wood chips or crushed stone can be used as a mulch, although in general I don't like the appearance of stone, which is also more expensive and difficult to apply.  Almost any wood chips will do, although I personally find the colored mulches unnatural, even garish. Cocoa been hulls can be used but usually do not stay put over a weed barrier, and I am told they are toxic to dogs.  Mulch need not be heavy, two to four inches deep is plenty.  One disadvantage of wood mulch is that heavy rain or roof runoff can move it around, exposing the plastic and requiring work to replace it. An advantage of stone mulch is that it will stay in place.  Wood mulch deteriorates over time and eventually has to be replaced.  Wood mulch, particularly without a weed barrier, depletes the soil of nitrogen and may cause foliage to yellow.  Occasional fertilizing with a low nitrogen fertilizer easily compensates for the deficiency.
   I do not always use a weed barrier and mulch, but it is a valid maintenance technique and certainly makes a planting bed look neat and finished.

1 comment:

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